Avicultural Housing
Aviary
For those very social species, the ideal way of housing and breeding the species is to keep them on a colony flock basis, as they will especially thrive and be stimulated by the company of other conspecifics (i.e. members of their species). In actual fact, I never keep just a single bird of any particular species. At the very least I have a pair of the same species, as I believe it is cruel to isolate a bird from it's conspecifics and enforce only human companionship upon it. Even those species which are aggressive towards other conspecifics (e.g. the Broadtails and Rosellas) must have a partner (even if you do not intend to breed them) in order to keep their mind active and to ensure their future health and happiness.
A bird flock has a complex social heirachy and the usual bird has a mate/partner whom they are especially affectionate and intimate with, plus a series of close friends which are allowed to engage in mutual preening and feeding and are given certain allowances for behaviour. Thirdly, there are those birds whom are rather aquaitances, and then those whom are hardly engaged with. Interactions occur almost constantly, whether the birds may be feeding, preening, playing, fighting (aggressive territorial or play), displaying, mating or rearing young and enrich the captive birds' rather limited experiences.
The latter social experiences cannot be gained when pairs of especially social species are housed in individual flights, although the latter do have the advantage when breeding - the paternal parentage can be ensured and thus mutation breeding and pedigree lines maintained. An aviary for an individual breeding pair should be at lease 6' long x 2' wide x 6' tall, to allow flying.
Even in individual partnerships, there are still some highly advanced social interactions occuring and no bird should be deprived of the company of its own kind.
On average, in a community aviary, an individual bird requires between 1' and 2' square feet of floor space. Really, if the aviary looks over-crowded, it is, and will not be good for the birds. Though if there visually seems enough space (and then some) for each bird then you have got the balance right.
The mesh should be at least 19 gauge (19g) and ideally 1/2" x 1/2" to keep vermin out. If using galvanised mesh, scrub down with cider vinegar and a wire brush before adding the birds to the aviary. The latter process removes any excess zinc deposits left from the galvanising process, which are poisonous to your birds. If building your own aviary try to use 2" square tanalised timber as it's more study and will last longer than most timbers, Aim to build your aviary in panel form as it can be dismantled and transported easily should you want to move or sell the aviary. Also, use screws or long nuts and bolts instead of nails to allow easy removal of the panels latter on (also prevents spliting of the wood).
Check the whole structure weekly to pick up on maintainance jobs early, before rotting sets in or birds escape. It is very likely that the aviary will require small maintainence work done to it annually, especially as the lower timbers will rot easily. In general, a wood aviary should last between 5 and 10 years if it is regularly maintained.
The aviary floor should be concrete or slabbed to prevent the entry of vermin and predators, and aid cleaning. Also try to set the floor on a slight gradient to allow rain water to escape. Cleaning a concrete floor can be labour intensive and should consist of scraping the droppings loose (use a floor scraper or garden hoe), sweeping to remove waste (a normal sized soft dense natural bristle yard brush is best), scrubbing (with the yard brush) and disinfecting, and finally rinsing with clean water, making sure there are no puddles or stagnant water.
To make cleaning easer, you can also cover the concrete flooring withat least a 2" deep layer of bark chippings sold at your local garden centre. You could also add a little gravel and compost to allow drainage. A little ecosystem of insects, arachnids and worms forms in the bark and keeps the mix clean and sweet smelling. The bark mix should be raked to remove droppings and sour food every week and the top layer replenished as required. Complete removal of the bark should be made every 6 months, when it will have rotted down and begun to compact. The floor should be disinfected and a new bark layer added. The spent bark can be added to the garden as quality mulch.
Roofing should be corugated plastic and preferably fully cover to prevent wild bird droppings from entering the aviary. In winter, cover majority of the open side with clear plastic to guard from wind and rain.
Species from temperate climates are usually extremely hardy and mostly do not require an indoor shelter, (although you must endevour to research the housing needs of the particular species you are interested in before you take this advice). For an aviary without a shelter, nest boxes for roosting and additional perches situated high near the roof will suffice. As long as the birds are dry and out of draughts and prevailing strong winds, they can withstand a UK Winter. Mine even love playing in snow! Although, a shelter would be advantagous should your birds commence Winter breeding or for your piece of mind.
Equally for those species from tropical climates (e.g. Africa, Amazonia), an indoor shelter and even heating must be required to prevent frostbite, or even death due to low temperatures. With these species, the birds must be shut inside the shelter at night, or even kept indoors thoughout the Winter.
Aviary Accessories
Perches should be a mixture of textures and diameters. Try to include knotted sisal rope suspended from the ceiling/roof, wooden dowel or varying thicknesses and natural fruit or willow tree branches (no Prunus species as poisonous - plum, cherry, peach, apricot). Perches should be scrubbed clean with a mild disinfectant solution weekly.
Use large rabbit water bottles with a stainless steel twin ball spout for water, as they remain clean and the birds cannot make poop-soup! A stainless steel dog bowl or cat litter tray is ideal as a bath. Do not place under perches, fill to 2" maximum and provide all year round. In winter, you MUST check that the water hasn't frozen, at least twice a day - provide multiple water bottles/pots, break the ice or supply warm water if required.
Seed and eggfood can be placed in a cat litter tray, stainless steel, earthenware or glass oven bowl. Turn a large plastic toy box on it's side, put on the aviary floor and place the seed bowl/tray at the rear to prevent soiling by droppings or rain water.
Greenfood, fruit, vege, bread, cake and millet sprays can be directly pushed into the aviary mesh next to perches, which will encourage the birds to nibble.
Other accessories which you will require include:
*
yard brush - normal sized soft dense natural bristle;
* floorscraper/garden hoe;
* sturdy large dustpan;
* large bin bags and small food bags;
* a few scrubbing brushes (dandy, hand or water brush, ideally with
a handle);
* large bucket for perch and floor cleaning;
* small bucket for transferring drinking water to the aviary;
* plenty of clean bowls in case you haven't got time immediately
to clean dirty ones;
* hose pipe;
* outside tap is handy;
* bird net;
* couple or towels to catch/hold birds;
* feed scoup (or handled beer glass, large mug);
* lidded feed buckets/screw-top storage jars;
* vegetable/paring knife;
* full-tool kit including screwdrivers, hammer, pliers, wire cutters,
drill (and bits), saw, screws, nails, mesh staples, j-clips and
pliers; hinges etc;
* spare offcuts of wood and mesh for repairs;
* newspaper;
* paper towels/kitchen roll;
* bird-safe disinfectant;
* washing-up liquid;
* bleach;
* cider vinegar;
* freezer ties;
* cable ties;
* brooder - small plastic ventliation lidded aquarium, electric
heat pad with variable control, photo quality themometer;
* first-aid kit: scissors, nail clippers, tweesers, measuring jug,
syringes (no needle!), * cotton-wool, talcum powder, electrolytes
(sea salt & honey) hand-rearing food & bent spoon;
* show cages to transport, transfer or immobilise ill birds;
* sheets for covering cages;
* plenty of clean cages stored in case you need to seperate birds.
Vermin & Predators
Use 1/2" x 1/2" mesh (or cage bars if we are dealing with a birdroom), which will prevent the smallest of vermin gaining entry to the aviary. If you have a indoor shelter: place it on a concrete footing; wire mesh the base and sides to prevent vermin chewing holes in the wood; always ensure there are no crevices where mice could hide; keep it exquistly clean and sweep up any waste seed asap; place feed on a shelf or in a hanging feeder, not on the floor.
I once had a Budgerigar aviary which had a terrible mice infestation in the shelter. I used the strongest poison around to try and eradicate them but they just nibbled on it for breakfast! Consequently my birds became ill and it was near impossible to keep the area clean of mice droppings and urine - the stench would hit you as soon as you opened the door. I thus moved my birds into a shed whilst they were under veterinary treatment and once they were better, I sold my birds and tore down the shelter.
I now only have outdoor flights which are roofed and covered on three sides. Nest boxes are provided for roosting, aswell as sisal perching close to the warm roof. I do intend to have a bird-room again eventually, but this time it would have to be meshed entirely and an ultrasonic repeller installed.
To prevent foxes, cats or dogs getting into your flight, always base the aviary on a concrete or slabbed floor so that foxes cannot dig. Having a guard dog and/or tom cat will ward off incoming predators. Clay mixed into the soil around the avary will deter cats - they hate the smell and feel of it under their feet. Rubber or plastic spike treads attached to the perimiter of the aviary roof will also prevent cats from jumping onto the roof. Cats-eyes (glow in the dark shiny things) also deter cats and foxes.
If you are still having a problem with them worrying your birds, and neither you or your neighbours do not own a dog or cat, install an ultrasonic device, which will ward off all mammal predators.
To deter birds of prey, a mirror ball i.e. disco type, will glint in the sun and 'blind' raptors (not literally, but just like if you looked at a strong light and you have coloured blurry blobs in front of your eyes) as they descend thus detering them. Also shiny CDs suspended from tall poles have the same effect. Large false 'owl eyes' will work by fooling the raptor into thinking the territory is taken. Finally, double-wiring your flight will prevent a raptor catching a bird who has flown to the side of the aviary, but sadly will not protect them from any injury gained during a panic.
Night Frights
All birds can be subject to night frights, especially Cockatiels, Grass Parakeets and Ino or Fallow coloured birds (due to their over-sensitive red eyes and hearing picking up the slightest frightening thing). A night fright can be described as a situation in which the birds will fly around their cage or aviary in a blind mad panic, usually in response to an alarming noise or light.
Obviously for a bird to fly around blindly at night, there is the possibility of them seriously hurting themselves. So to reduce the possibility of night frights in general, keep some form of low lighting near the aviary or cage e.g. external solar lighting, a nigth light. Also covering your pet bird's cage at night will help them rest more easily.
Mixed Aviary
Compatible species for a mixed parakeet, finch and dove colony aviary would include:
Budgerigars;
Bourke's Parakeets;
Splendid (Scarlet-Chested) Parakeets;
Elegant Parakeets;
Blue-winged Parakeets;
Rock Parakeet;
Swift Parakeets;
Plum-headed Parakeets;
Lineolated Parakeets;
Diamond Doves;
Ringneck Doves;
Japanese Quail;
Chinese Painted Quail;
Java Sparrows;
Bengalese Finches;
Zebra Finches.
Please remember that all birds are indiviuals and so you must always keep an eye on individuals and the general harmony of the aviary. Try to determine each bird's character and temperament before and during adding to the mixed flock. Always remove any aggressive birds.
Toys
All parakeets and parrots, and even some softbills, finches and doves, whether they are pet or aviary birds enjoy toys. Cockatiels especially love rope, ladders, swings, bells, wood chews, leather strips, rawhide, strips of newspaper and large shiny plastic buttons.
Pet Cage
Try to buy the biggest cage you can afford, as obviously, larger is definately better. Remember to account for your budget and room size when choosing a cage.
I believe no bird should be forced to live in a tiny cage and I advise you to only purchase cages that are at least Cockatiel-sized or larger. I abolutely detest those tiny cages marketed for Finched and Budgies. Thus, The latter birds, despite their small size need as much space as any other larger birds - they will definately utilise every spare inch of space you provide them with. Thus, the absolute minimum cage requirement for one bird is:
Across
- 18 inches or 46 cm;
Wide - 18 inches or 46 cm;
High - 24 inches or 61cm.
In choosing the cage you must allow for the fact that your bird requires plenty of room to stretch and flap its wings, and also to allow for the tail length, as the bird will not appreciate having to drag it's tail on the floor or get it caught on the cage bars/mesh.
Please do not clutter your bird's cage. Take into account the toys and accessories (food and water pots, perches etc...) which you are going to house in the cage when considering cage size.
You must remember to check the width of the cage bars/mesh. A good guideline is ½ and inch for Finches, occassionally 1/4 of an inch for the tiny species; ½ to ¾ inch (1.5 to 2 cm) for Parakeets; and ¾ to 1 inch for Parrots. If you buy a cage with bars/mesh which are too small or too large for the species you intend to keep, your bird with runs the risk of getting it's head caught in the bars or mesh, or cannot climb properly, or it may escape through the mesh.
A cage with all or majority horizontal bars is preferable as it will enable the bird to climb with ease around its cage. Never buy a cage with vertical barring only is you are to be keeping any parrot - these cages are only suitable for those species which don't climb i.e. Finches, Doves, Softbills etc, and even then these species will cling and jump onto the mesh and vertical bars do make gripping difficult.
It is best to buy a cage with a plastic or metal removable tray at the bottom, as it makes changing the newspaper every other day much more simple.
Please NEVER, EVER buy a round cage! They are bad for all birds: all vertical bars, small width and there are no corners for the bird to retreat to if scared or just wanting 'alone-time'. A bird which is forced to live in a round cage will be very insecure and stressed. Finally, these cages are very tall in relation to their width - birds fly horizontally, not upwards like helicopters! Yes, they can fly almost vertically in an aviary setting to ascend to a higher perch, but upward flying is an occassional mode of respositioning, not a normal flight pattern, and thus the bird will not develop it's flight muscles properly and may even strain itself trying to do so.
Out of Cage Time
Regardless of your pet birds cage size, please remember that in order to remain happy and healthy your bird will require time out of its cage. Probably the only exception to this rule is tiny finches which could prove impossible to catch again, or vanish into little holes, never to be seen again.
Anyway, the general rule is that birds need exercise, so let your pet out at least once a day - whether it is for a fly around (if its wings are not clipped), a walk around, a sit on your shoulder or simply to sit out on top of its cage. Ideally the bird should be allowed out for about one hour per day, but preferably he/she should be able to come and go as it pleases, obviously within reason, and depending on your home environment.
Do not keep your bird locked up in its cage day in and day out. It must be allowed out each day.
