The
seedeater's diet in the wild usually consists of various elements
that amount to approximately:
There are a few fortified seed and pellet mixes available to buy
which incorporate all of the above requirement plus the required
vitamins and minerals, a complete feed you might say. They may save
a lot of time and effort (well, all you need to do is plonk the
mix into the bird's bowl, don't you?), but I do not feed these as
I believe birds should have a variety of foods and textures, something
to look forward to so they don't become bored - would you like to
eat the same boring food everyday?
Plus according to the time of year (season), weather, if breeding or resting, and the health of the bird, the bird will select a different ratio of seeds and fresh foods to suit it's present requirements, which goes a long way to ensuring it's health and wellbeing. A seed mix supplemented with
fresh food encourages foraging which keeps the bird's mind and body active.
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Different Types of Pelleted Diets |
Seed
I
feed all my birds a seed mix comprising 50% Cockatiel seed mix and 50% good quality premium Wild Bird seed mix. This offers a good varied mix, especially for my doves.
The brands I purchase vary according to available stock, but for Cockatiel seed, I usually buy: Willsbridge, Mayfield or Bucktons; and for Wild Bird seed I like: Counytrywide or Mayfield Supreme/Premium.
| A Cockatiel seed mix will contain most of the following ingredients, although usually in varying ratios according to the brand: |
A Wild Bird seed mix will contain most of the following ingredients, although usually in varying ratios according to the brand: |
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I also supply a dish of dry porridge oats, plus a a small pot of fruity parrot mix which my birds like
to pick over - especially the Bengalese Finches!
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Fruity Parrot Mix |
Porridge Oats |
Freshfood
Your
bird's seed diet must be supplemented daily with greenfood, fruit
and vegetables. Examples of greenfood include:
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Shepherd's Purse |
Chickweed |
Nettle |
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Dandelion |
Ribwort Plantain |
Greater/Broadleaf Plantain |
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Bird/Cow/Tufted Vetch |
Purple Coneflower/Echinacea |
Heartsease/Viola/Wild Pansy |
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Red & White Clover |
Pot Marigold |
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Vegetables your
bird will enjoy include: celary, sweetcorn, carrot, peas, green beans,
brocalli, cooked sweet potato, beetroot (but it may stain the plumage), cucumber,
cauliflower, peppers, dried chilli peppers. ...and finally, fruits:
apple, pear, grapes, banana, pomegranite, tomato, melon, strawberry...
All
uneaten fresh foods should be removed within 12 hours or it will
spoil and could be potentially harmful.
Also, limit the amount of high-water content freshfood you give to the bird(s), such as lettuce, cucumber, celary etc., as these may cause diarrhoea if eaten in large quantities. They are good foods in essence, but just don't feed too much!
Eggfood
A
valuble source of protein, omega and essential fatty acids, trace vitamins and minerals.
Eggfood should be given every day during the breeding season and whilst
moulting. Then every 2-3 days for the rest of the year.
To
make your own eggfood, hardboil some eggs, crush and crumble with
the shell still attached, and mix with wholemeal bread or digestive
biscuit crumbs and grated carrot. You can add other ingredients and supplements to suit. Either just make enough for one
day or freeze in seperate bags and thaw overnight for use the next
day.
Water
Birds,
as with all other animals, must have a constant supply of clean
fresh water which should be replaced daily.
Supplements
Cuttlefish
bone must be available constantly as it is an invaluble source of
calcium and helps keep the beak worn down as the bird chews.
A
mineral/iodine block which is fixed to the cage mesh or bars, or pick stone must also be available constantly. You can also purchase pink minerals and black minerals (pink contain iodine), which are in powder form and manufactured for the pigeon fancy. These can be offered in a pot for the bird to pick over as and when it needs to; or a small amount can be mixed into the seed or freshfood/eggfood, to ensure the bird is getting its minerals.
Probiotic,
prebiotic, herb, vitamin and mineral supplements can also be used, though always
follow the manufacturers instructions.
A calcium and vitamin D3 supplement is highly valuable. Supplied in the water daily during the breeding season and moult, or once a week throughout the rest of the year, will ensure the birds have an adequate calcium supply (laying eggs depletes the skeleton, causing brittle bones) and the vitamin D3 (the 'sunshine' vitamin) is required to ensure the calcium is absorbed and metabolised properly.
Rearing
Foods
Before
you set up birds to breed, their calcium level must be increased
so the hens can produce eggs without depleting their bone calcium.
Use calcium supplements such as Calcivet or Calciform.
Whilst
the birds are breeding and have young in the nest the parents require
rearing foods. This can be in the form of commercially or home-prepared
softfoods or egg-food.
Treats
Millet sprays are a great option- nutrition plus entertainment,
aswell as bread (preferably wholemeal), digestive biscuits and maderia
cake. You can also soak the cake in honey or milk - but be careful
of souring. In the Winter especially, my birds recieve daily bread, biscuit
and cake rations to bulk out their feed and keep them warm - eating
creates body heat as the food is digested.
It
is quite acceptable for you to allow your pet to try some of your
foods, though you must never, ever feed them chocolate, alcohol,
caffeine, avocado, potato, pop or fizzy drinks, or foods containing
excessive salt, sugar or fat.
Grit
The use of grit is said to assist with the grinding up of seed within the gizzard (2nd stomach), aswell as provide minerals.
In my experience of using grit, a lot of my birds suffered from crop impactions, a few actually dying because of this problem; so I decided to cease providing grit. I have since never had another bird with an impaction, plus my birds are fit and healthy and able to completely digest their seeds without it.
Whether or not to provide grit is entirely up to the individual birdkeeper. If you do decide to provide grit, choose the smoother grits which are less likely to cause internal damage. If you opt not to provide grit, you must ensure that your birds are getting their minerals another way - mineral/iodine blocks, cuttlefish, pink/black minerals, limestone flour etc.
Also, charcoal is a better option to grit, as it is abrasive enough to aid the grinding of food, but also in small enough particles to ensure that no impactions occur.
Introducing
New Foods
This
should be done gradually over a period of time - ideally 2 weeks, but at least 5 days. You must watch for
any adverse reactions and if any of the following symptoms are seen,
the new food must be removed immediately:
·
looser than normal droppings;
· drinking too much water;
· irregular or abnormal breathing;
· any other unusual behaviour which was not present previously.
If
symptoms persist, consult your vet.
