LittleGreenDarcyAviary, Species Information: Cockatiels, Housing

Cockatiels: Housing

Aviary

A Social Species

Ideally, Cockatiels should be kept on a colony flock basis as they are an extremely social species, thriving on the company of other Cockatiels. A Cockatiel flock has a complex social heirachy and the usual bird has a mate/partner whom they are especially affectionate and intimate with, plus a series of close friends which are allowed to engage in mutual preening and feeding and are given certain allowances for behaviour. Thirdly, there are those birds whom are rather aquaitances, and then those whom are hardly engaged with. Interactions occur almost constantly, whether the birds may be feeding, preening, playing, fighting (aggressive territorial or play), displaying, mating or rearing young and enrich the captive birds' rather limited experiences.

A group of my adult Cockatiels all soaking up the warmth of the Autumn evening sun.

The latter social experiences cannot be gained when pairs are housed in individual flights, although the latter do have the advantage when breeding - the paternal parentage can be ensured and thus mutation breeding and pedigree lines maintained. An aviary for an individual breeding pair should be at lease 6' long x 2' wide x 6' tall, to allow flying.

Best friends: &

(with on their right)

Aviary Size & Stocking

An aviary for about four or five breeding pairs would have to be a minimum of 8' square x 6' tall to allow for fledglings, although out of the breeding season, the same flight could house twenty or so birds. Obvisously, the larger aviary is preffered though it is usually budget and space which governs the aviary size. On average, a bird needs between 1' and 2' square of floor space. Really, if the aviary looks over-crowded, it is, and will not be good for the birds. Though if there visually seems enough space (and then some) for each bird then you have got the balance right.

Wire Mesh

The mesh should be at least 19 gauge (19g) and ideally 1/2" x 1/2" to keep vermin out. If using galvanised mesh, scrub down with cider vinegar and a wire brush before adding the birds to the aviary. The latter process removes any excess zinc deposits left from the galvanising process, which are poisonous to your birds. If building your own aviary try to use 2" square tanalised timber as it's more study and will last longer than most timbers, Aim to build your aviary in panel form as it can be dismantled and transported easily should you want to move or sell the aviary. Also, use screws or long nuts and bolts instead of nails to allow easy removal of the panels latter on (also prevents spliting of the wood).

climbing on the aviary mesh - in this case to full scale.

Maintenance

Check the whole structure weekly to pick up on maintainance jobs early, before rotting sets in or birds escape. It is very likely that the aviary will require small maintainence work done to it annually, especially as the lower timbers will rot easily. In general, a wood aviary should last between 5 and 10 years if it is regularly maintained.

Flooring

The aviary floor should be concrete or slabbed to prevent the entry of vermin and predators, and aid cleaning. Also try to set the floor on a slight gradient to allow rain water to escape. Cleaning a concrete floor can be labour intensive and should consist of scraping the droppings loose (use a floor scraper or garden hoe), sweeping to remove waste (a normal sized soft dense natural bristle yard brush is best), scrubbing (with the yard brush) and disinfecting, and finally rinsing with clean water, making sure there are no puddles or stagnant water.

A slabbed concrete floor will get dirty very quickly, but is easy to scape, brush, scrub and disinfect. Also droppings are visable so it's easy to keep an eye on the digestive health of your birds.

To make cleaning easer, you can also cover the concrete flooring withat least a 2" deep layer of bark chippings sold at your local garden centre. You could also add a little gravel and compost to allow drainage. A little ecosystem of insects, arachnids and worms forms in the bark and keeps the mix clean and sweet smelling. The bark mix should be raked to remove droppings and sour food at least once or twice a week and the top layer replenished as required. Complete removal of the bark should be made every 6 months, when it will have rotted down and begun to compact. The floor should be disinfected and a new bark layer added. The spent bark can be added to the garden as quality mulch.

Roofing

Roofing should ideally be corrugated plastic and preferably fully cover to prevent wild bird droppings from entering the aviary. In winter, cover majority of the open side with clear plastic to guard from wind and rain.

Shelter

Cockatiels are extremely hardy and do not require an indoor shelter - nest boxes for roosting and additional perches situated high near the roof will suffice. As long as the birds are dry and out of draughts and prevailing strong winds, they can withstand a UK Winter. Mine even love playing in snow! Although, a shelter would be advantagour should your birds commence Winter breeding or for your piece of mind.

A good quality, thick nest box is a great roosting area, whether the bird decides to sit inside, on the outside perch or on top.

Aviary Accessories

Perching

Perches should be a mixture of textures and diameters. Try to include knotted sisal rope suspended from the ceiling/roof, wooden dowel or varying thicknesses and natural fruit or willow tree branches (no Prunus species as poisonous - plum, cherry, peach, apricot). Perches should be scrubbed clean with a mild disinfectant solution weekly.

perched on a length of knotted sisal rope.

Water

Use large rabbit water bottles with a stainless steel twin ball spout for water, as they remain clean and the birds cannot make poop-soup! A stainless steel dog bowl or cat litter tray is ideal as a bath. Do not place under perches, fill to 2" maximum and provide all year round. In winter, you MUST check that the water hasn't frozen, at least twice a day - provide multiple water bottles/pots, break the ice or supply warm water if required.

Fledgling Cockatiel with the water bottle I recommend in the background.

Food Containers

Seed and eggfood can be placed in a cat litter tray, stainless steel, earthenware or glass oven bowl. Turn a large plastic toy box on it's side, put on the aviary floor and place the seed bowl/tray at the rear to prevent soiling by droppings or rain water.

Greenfood, fruit, vege, bread, cake and millet sprays can be directly pushed into the aviary mesh next to perches, which will encourage the birds to nibble. Alternatively, place the food on the ground, through not under perches, where it would become quickly soiled.

Additional Essential Accessories

* yard brush - normal sized soft dense natural bristle;
* floorscraper/garden hoe;
* sturdy large dustpan;
* large bin bags and small food bags;
* a few scrubbing brushes (dandy, hand or water brush, ideally with a handle);
* large bucket for perch and floor cleaning;
* small bucket for transferring drinking water to the aviary;
* plenty of clean bowls in case you haven't got time immediately to clean dirty ones;
* hose pipe;
* outside tap is handy;
* bird net;
* couple or towels to catch/hold birds;
* feed scoup (or handled beer glass, large mug);
* lidded feed buckets/screw-top storage jars;
* vegetable/paring knife;
* full-tool kit including screwdrivers, hammer, pliers, wire cutters, drill (and bits), saw, screws, nails, mesh staples, j-clips and pliers; hinges etc;
* spare offcuts of wood and mesh for repairs;
* newspaper;
* paper towels/kitchen roll;
* bird-safe disinfectant;
* washing-up liquid;
* bleach;
* cider vinegar;
* freezer ties;
* cable ties;
* brooder - small plastic ventliation lidded aquarium, electric heat pad with variable control, photo quality themometer;
* first-aid kit: scissors, nail clippers, tweesers, measuring jug, syringes (no needle!), * cotton-wool, talcum powder, electrolytes (sea salt & honey) hand-rearing food & bent spoon;
* show cages to transport, transfer or immobilise ill birds;
* sheets for covering cages;
* plenty of clean cages stored in case you need to seperate birds.

Vermin & Predators

Use 1/2" x 1/2" mesh (or cage bars if we are dealing with a birdroom), which will prevent the smallest of vermin gaining entry to the aviary. If you have a indoor shelter: place it on a concrete footing; wire mesh the base and sides to prevent vermin chewing holes in the wood; always ensure there are no crevices where mice could hide; keep it exquistly clean and sweep up any waste seed asap; place feed on a shelf or in a hanging feeder, not on the floor.

I once had a Budgerigar aviary which had a terrible mice infestation in the shelter. I used the strongest poison around to try and eradicate them but they just nibbled on it for breakfast! Consequently my birds became ill and it was near impossible to keep the area clean of mice droppings and urine - the stench would hit you as soon as you opened the door. I thus moved my birds into a shed whilst they were under veterinary treatment and once they were better, I sold my birds and tore down the shelter.

I now only have outdoor flights which are roofed and covered on three sides. Nest boxes are provided for roosting, aswell as sisal perching close to the warm roof. I do intend to have a bird-room again eventually, but this time it would have to be meshed entirely and an ultrasonic repeller installed.

To prevent foxes, cats or dogs getting into your flight, always base the aviary on a concrete or slabbed floor so that foxes cannot dig. Having a guard dog and/or tom cat will ward off incoming predators. Clay mixed into the soil around the avary will deter cats - they hate the smell and feel of it under their feet. Rubber or plastic spike treads attached to the perimiter of the aviary roof will also prevent cats from jumping onto the roof. Cats-eyes (glow in the dark shiny things) also deter cats and foxes.

If you are still having a problem with them worrying your birds, and neither you or your neighbours do not own a dog or cat, install an ultrasonic device, which will ward off all mammal predators.

our beautiful tortoiseshell & white queen who wards off vermin, keeps other cats away and generally ignores the aviary (and wild) birds ...except for sharpening her claws on the aviary framework!!!

the family pet & territorial guard dog. He's a Staffordshire Bull Terrier x Labrador who has a VERY loud bark of a dog twice his size and even fiercer attack. He would definately let us know about any intruders.

To deter birds of prey, a mirror ball i.e. disco type, will glint in the sun and 'blind' raptors (not literally, but just like if you looked at a strong light and you have coloured blurry blobs in front of your eyes) as they descend thus detering them. Also shiny CDs suspended from tall poles have the same effect. Large false 'owl eyes' will work by fooling the raptor into thinking the territory is taken. Finally, double-wiring your flight will prevent a raptor catching a bird who has flown to the side of the aviary, but sadly will not protect them from any injury gained during a panic.

Night Frights

All Cockatiels are subject to night frights, where they will fly around their cage or aviary in a blind mad panic, usually in response to an alarming noise or light. Lutinos, Whiteface Lutinos and Fallows are especially susceptible due to their over-sensitibe red-eyes and hearing picking up the slightest frightening thing.

Obviously for a bird to fly around blindly at night, there is the possibility of them seriously hurting themselves. So to reduce the possibility of night frights in general, keep some form of low lighting near the aviary or cage e.g. external solar lighting, a nigth light. Also covering you pet Cockatiel's cage at night will help them rest more easily.

a Lutino Cockatiel with her Budgerigar friends -

an Albino & a Lutino. ALL these birds are especially susceptible to night frights due to their plumage colour mutation i.e. they all have RED EYES!

Mixed Aviary

A photo of my mixed aviary showing Cockatiels, Bourkes Parakeets, Ringneck Doves and Java Sparrows.

Compatible species for a mixed colony large aviary would include:

Budgerigars;
Bourke's Parakeets;
Splendid (Scarlet-Chested) Parakeets;
Elegant Parakeets;
Blue-winged Parakeets;
Rock Parakeets;
Swift Parakeets;
Plum-headed Parakeets;
Lineolated Parakeets;
Diamond Doves;
Ringneck Doves;
Japanese Quail;
Chinese Painted Quail;
Java Sparrows;
Bengalese Finches;
Zebra Finches.

Please remember that all birds are indiviuals and so you must always keep an eye on individuals and the general harmony of the aviary. Try to determine each bird's character and temperament before and during adding to the mixed flock. Always remove any aggressive birds.

Toys

All Cockatiels, whether they are pet or aviary birds require toys. Cockatiels especially love rope, ladders, swings, bells, wood chews, leather strips, rawhide, strips of newspaper and large shiny plastic buttons. When supervised, a pet Cockatiel will enjoy a soft toy (must be 'baby safe').

enjoying sitting on her soft toy Polar Bear.

Pet Cage

Try to buy the biggest cage you can afford, as obviously, larger is definately better. Remember to account for your budget and room size when choosing a Cockatiel cage.

The absolute minimum cage requirement for one cockatiel is:

Across - 18 inches or 46 cm;
Wide - 18 inches or 46 cm;
High - 24 inches or 61cm.

having out of cage time. Her large Cockatiel cage is in the background.

In choosing the cage you must allow for the fact that your cockatiel needs room to stretch and flap its wings and also to allow for the length of it's beautiful tail, which it will not want to drag on the floor or get caught on the cage bars/mesh.

Please do not clutter your Cockatiel's cage. Take into account the toys and accessories (food and water pots, perches etc...) which you are going to house in the cage when considering cage size.

You must remember to check the width of the cage bars/mesh. A good guideline is ½ to ¾ inch or 1.5 to 2 cm. If you buy a cage with bars/mesh any larger than this, your Cockatiels runs the risk of getting it's head caught in the bars or mesh.

A cage with all or majority horizontal bars is preferable as it will enable the Cockatiel to climb around its cage. Never buy a cage with vertical barring only is you are to be keeping any parrot - these cages are only suitable for those species which don't climb i.e. Finches, Doves, Softbills etc.

in her cage, eating her dinner. Note the horizontal bars at the front for her to climb. Also plenty of toys.

It is best to buy a cage with a plastic or metal removable tray at the bottom, as it makes changing the newspaper every other day much more simple.

Please NEVER, EVER buy a round cage! They are bad for all birds: all vertical bars, small width and there are no corners for the bird to retreat to if scared or just wanting 'alone-time'. A bird which is forced to live in a round cage will be very insecure and stressed. Finally, these cages are very tall in relation to their width - birds fly horizontally, not upwards like helicopters! Yes, they can fly almost vertically in an aviary setting to ascend to a higher perch, but upward flying is an occassional mode of respositioning, not a normal flight pattern, and thus the bird will not develop it's flight muscles properly and may even strain itself trying to do so.

Out of Cage Time

Regardless of your pet Cockatiel's cage size, please remember that in order to remain happy and healthy your Cockatiel will require time out of its cage. The bird needs exercise, so let your Cockatiel out at least once a day - whether it is for a fly around (if its wings are not clipped), a walk around, a sit on your shoulder or simply to sit out on top of its cage. Ideally the Cockateil should be allowed out for about one hour per day, but preferably he/she should be able to come and go as it pleases, obviously within reason, and depending on your home environment.

Do not keep your cockatiel locked up in its cage day in and day out. It must be allowed out each day.

surveying her surroundings whilst enjoying out-of-cage time.

Grooming

A Cockatiel does not require any help to preen itself. All a Cockatiel needs is a good clean environment to live in and access to bath - daily in the aviary bird, whatever the weather, and probably once or twice a week in the pet bird; and they will do the rest...